Israel Day 10 by Richard Leavitt

Last Group Photo Op

This was our final day of our tour. Several folks left last night, so our numbers were reduced but our enthusiasm wasn't. 

We left the kibbutz hotel for Tzippori where we saw some incredible ruins from the Roman era.  We visited sites of a couple of small towns where there was evident wealth. Several houses had some amazing mosaics on the floors that resembled Persian carpets, and the synogogue at Tzippori had a very detailed, artistic and large mosaic that contained millions (literally) of individual colored stones.  The wealth that it must have taken to pay for such artistry!  I'll bet the membership dues for the country club were astronomical!

David Schwarz befriended a sweet-tempered dog who followed him around all morning, finally resting on a cool stone floor of one of the buildings.  

Then on to Beit Shearim, the resting place of Rabbi Judah HaNasi, the author of the Mishna, and others.  The custom there was to let the bodies decay and then place the bones in stone sarcophagi (sarcophaguses?) placed deep in hand-hewn caves.  Rabbi Dardik spoke about having to bury the body below the surface of the earth, not necessarily in a grave, so these burials were halachically correct, as the caves were definitely in the ground.  The surrounding area was lush and lovely and park-like.  In fact, it is an Israeli national park. 

Roman aqueduct at Caesarea

Penultimately (for you wordsmiths), we went to Caesarea, a beautiful Mediterranean costal port with a multi-ethnic history.  Originally a small port, it was magnificently improved by Herod, with some ingenious  and cutting-edge (excuse the stone allusion) architecture.  He had built large wooden barges filled with volcanic ash that they floated out in a semi-circle, then sank as the sea water mixed with the ash, creating a cement.  The result?  A break-water that could be built upon, creating an artificial port.  He created more: a hippodrome, temple, theater and other buildings.
  

Beaches at Caesarea

The city was conquered by the Muslims who held it for a couple of centuries, destroyed the temple and built a mosque.  Then the Crusaders took the city, destroyed the mosque and built a church.  Then the Byzantines.  And finally the city was left to decay, until the late 19th century when it was bought by Baron de Rothschild who restored the port and city.  Now it is a seaside resort with a sandy beach, restaurants and points of interest. There were a couple of video exhibits showing the history of Caesarea.  None of the seats had armrests. Had there been, I think several of us would have gently fallen asleep.  It was dark and cool, and we were hot and tired.  

Farewell Dinner at Artmeat

Finally, we went to a nice, quiet restaurant for our last meal together.  The food, again, was bountiful, and good, and our last chance to try everything before we return home to diets of salad, non-fat everything, and not having seconds.  We made our toasts, said our sad goodbyes and went our various ways--some to the airport for the flight home, some to visit friends and family in Israel, some to other countries for more travel, and some to Jerusalem to take the measure of this wonderful city of contrasts.

This trip certainly has accomplished its goals of experiencing the excitement of walking through places and events in Tanach (including some post-biblical), turning a story into history (for the ingenues among us, namely me), increasing our appreciation for this wonderful country and nation, deepening our spirituality and increasing the camaraderie and dedication of our Beth Jacob chaverim. 

Our teachers & guides
Rabbi Dardik & Shulie

We have such gratitude for all of Rabbi Dardik's thinking, planning, and leadership on this wonderful adventure.  For those thinking of coming on this trip next year, please give it serious thought.  It has been a unique and fulfilling experience for us this year, and you will be fortunate to have a similar experience next year. 
 

Shalom,

Richard 

 
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Israel Day 9 by Richard Leavitt

Next to last day of our trip.  We're a bit tired but undaunted. It was a wonderful day.

We started our day going to Tel Dan, and an interesting exhibit and videos of how Torah, tefillin and mezuzah parchment is made, how the ink is made, and how the Sefer Torah, tefillin and mezuzah scrolls are inscribed and, finally, we got to try writing the aleph-bet on actual slips of parchment.  It was humbling.  There is much to the art of inscription, and our feeble attempts were lessons in humility.  Many kept their parchments, so you might want to ask one of us to take a look when we get home.

Rabbi Dardik teaching at the Yosef Karo synagogue

Then to Tzfat, to learn about the origins of Kabala, visiting the synogogues of Joseph Caro and the Ari.  They weren't there, of course, but their spirits were.  Again, sitting or standing in the places our forebears and sages stood, or sat, and we learned as they learned, and our teachers, Rabbi Dardik and Shuli, our tour guide, taught as they taught (Ok, I'm exaggerating a bit, but you get my drift).  The mantle of history was draped over us all today.  

A Judaica Shop in Tzfat

We walked a bit of the city, perched on the hillside with a lovely view to the fertile valley below.  Tzfat is home not only to the imagination of the Kabalists, but also to many artists, and there are numerous galleries there.  We visited the Safed Candle Works where the beautiful Shabbat, Havdalah, Chanukah and other candles are made that we can buy at Afikomen.  Prices are about the same here as there, which is interesting, so you can feel comfortable that you're getting a good price at Afikomen.

The Sea of Galilee

Then to a restaurant on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, a place Neil Taxy had suggested.  We were seated dockside, open-air, overlooking the water.  The food was delicious and plentiful (how unusual!), and we said goodbye to several of us who had to leave a day early.  Then out to sea on a wooden boat where we danced and played drums to some Israeli songs.  David Schwartz gave us an exhibition of break dancing and made us tired just watching him.  Where he got the energy after a full day of touring, I'll never know.  

Back to Kibbutz Lavi for some rest before our final day. Bed beckons, so I'll say goodnight.  

Richard

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Israel Day 8 by Richard Leavitt

At a rest stop on our way up north

It's lovely up north around Mt. Carmel. More rainfall -- so more trees and more agriculture.  The Jezreel valley is one of Israel's breadbaskets and, driving through the valley reminded me of parts of the Central Valley back home, with all the orchards--almonds, citrus, stone fruit and sunflowers, lots of sunflowers.  Parts of the road were lined with eucalyptus trees and they reminded me of the Napa Valley.  After the arid climate of Jerusalem, this felt lush.

We first visited a Carmelite monastery on--of all places--Mt. Carmel.  It had a commanding view of the surrounding plains and it was here that there was a showdown between polytheism and monotheism, with Elijah the Prophet coming in the winner over Ahav/Ahab  the idol-worshiper, when God set fire to Elijah's water-soaked sacrifice, whereas Ahav's Baal couldn't come up with a flicker of flame.  We all think of Elijah as the benign and welcome guest at Pesach and brises, but it turns out he's also associated with fire and was not all that pleasant a person.  One speculation, a midrash, I think, was that he spent his time on Earth in service of God, to the exclusion of man, so he has to spend his time in the Afterlife in the service of man. 

Then lower on the mount to Meggido, a partly-excavated town with 13 distinct layers of civilization.  It's striking how cities get built on the ruins of previous ones.  Part of the hillside was shorn away and revealed level upon level of ruins.  We learned that Armageddon derives from Har Megiddo.  Lots of battles went on in this region.

More aquaducts and cisterns, and big rocks, and the vital importance of water, but you've probably grown tired of hearing about these by now.  You had to be here....

Finally, to the kibbutz hotel at Kibbutz Lavi, our own oasis.  Swimming pool, lawns, beautiful park surrounding the hotel.  And, after yet another lovely dinner and shmoozing, to end the evening, a talk by a kibbutznik about life here.   

We're all kinda slowing down now, into the groove a bit, but also a bit weary from much sun, walking, looking looking looking, and paying attention to our wonderful tour guide, Shuli, and Rabbi Dardik.  It takes energy to pay attention, to learn, to keep up with the group.  There is so much to absorb.  It's like taking a whole semester in summer school. Thankfully, no tests, though.  

I've heard it's been rather cool at home.  The only place it's cool here is in our rooms.  Israeli hotels seem to have only two setting on their thermostats: Off and Cold. The bathrooms here have mosaics inlaid in the bathroom floors, in imitation of some of the ruins.  Quite spiffy, I'd say.  

G'night all.    

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Israel Day 7 by Richard Leavitt

I'm sure you all are becoming weary of my writing in superlatives, but I can't help it. It really has been that exceptional a trip, and today was no exception.

Hezekiah's water tunnel in Jerusalem

We started our day walking the underground water tunnel in the City of David. It was dug out of rock and soil about 30 feet underground, about 2 feet wide and varying in height between about 4 and 7 feet.  It was meant as a secure supply of water to the city, from a spring to a cistern, hidden and protected from any enemy outside the city.  It was an engineering marvel, having to be carved out of stone with iron tools, maintaining a constant slope and all dug with no visible guidelines and using pitch torches for light, dirty, smelly and consuming oxygen.  It was about 3-4/10s of a mile long and wading through it (the water level varied today between ankle- and knee-depth) ended up feeling like doing water aerobics.  

Next to the Jewish Quarter for lunch, wandering and browsing.  I can't tell you exactly why, but the hamburgers here taste better than anything I've ordered or made at home, and this isn't just a reflection of my thrall; others said the same thing.  

Then on to the Kotel tunnels, another engineering masterpiece.  I have seen Roman ruins, Roman aqueducts, Greek ruins, Mount Rushmore--big stones.  It's hard to imagine how they quarried, transported, lifted and secured these multi-ton blocks of stone.  We saw a movie about how it was done, but it was animation and you can do anything with animation.  These stones were HUGE, and carved perfectly, and placed perfectly, and they're still perfectly in place after over 2000 years!  I've seen and built rock walls, but I don't expect them to last 2000 years, and the biggest stone I've ever lifted into place is probably no more than 100 pounds.  And the walls that Herod had built were embossed, to add an aesthetic touch.  Too much!

Then a brief walk through the Arab Quarter. Same types of merchants, similar merchandise at the shops, same stone structures, but the feel was quite different.  We emerged at the Kotel for brief prayers, then back to the hotel, this time quite tired. 

Tomorrow we head north.

Till then...

Richard       

To view all our pictures....click here and don't forget to leave a comment...especially those who were on this incredible trip -- please tell us your thoughts when you were there!

Israel Day 5 & 6 by Richard Leavitt

Friday, June 21

We started the day treading the road Abraham and Isaac trod from Chevron to Jerusalem to make the sacrifice. It was a Roman road and we saw one of the tell-tale mile markers, a mikveh and a grape press along the way.  The mile marker was standard issue, but why a mikveh and why a grape press, and why were they in close proximity?

Planting a vineyard, having a press and making wine along a well-traveled path was good business for the owner who could sell his wares to those making pilgrimage, or who just wanted a thirst quencher.  Having a mikveh in place ensured that the stompers were ritually pure and the wine was kosher from the point the grapes were crushed and processed.  

It was quite an experience, walking the road of Abraham and Isaac, the actual road they walked and, once again, literally one foot in the past and one foot in the present. Rabbi Dardik has been so thoughtful in providing us these moments.  It is one of the essences of our trip. 

We returned to Jerusalem and walked to the shouk, a cacophony of merchants calling out their wares, with stalls pressed close together, displaying all sorts of goods, from fresh fruit, to halvah, to sandals, to kippot, to seafood, to meat, to digital equipment, you name it, it's for sale.  One man just had a big pile of cherries.  Either he sold out of other produce or he has ultimate faith in cherries.  

Then to the Kotel to welcome Shabbat.  If I said "cacophony" at the shouk, the word also applies at the Kotel on erev Shabbat.  The excitement, the variety of dress, of headwear, of immersion in davening, in decibels, oy of decibels!  We had arranged to have the women and men in our group be beside each other at the mehitzah so we could daven together.  We did pretty well until each group was surrounded by other groups who erupted in prayer, song and dance.  It gave new meaning to the term "silent prayer," as each of us retreated into our davening rather than try to out-shout others.  It was intense, and fun, and the spirit roared up from the ground.  If G_d hears our silent prayers, He must get a headache on Friday nights. 

Then back to the hotel for dinner and a learning session with Rabbi Dardik.  

Finally, to bed for some much needed sleep.  What a glorious day!

Shabbat, June 22

Some slept in; some went to various synagogues to daven. Those who went to the Jerusalem Great Synagogue got to see a magnificent building with stunning stained glass windows and panels.  The sun shone through a wall of colored glass, illuminating a large sanctuary with a central bimah, men scattered around and the women in the balcony.  The service, of course, was familiar.  The chazzan made some announcements in an English that none of us understood.  Once one gave up trying to understand what he was saying, it was rather amusing.  Reminds me of someone (I can't recall who) who characterized England and the America as two countries separated by a common language.  

Some came back to the hotel to rest, others went on a walking tour of a lovely neighborhood, Yamin Moshe, near our hotel.  It had the loveliest architecture, and ornamental plantings, and wrought iron gates, and balconies, and several pocket-parks, one with a delightful water fountain that some children were playing in.  It is the oldest neighborhood outside the Old City, and has been renovated but also has much more recent construction in keeping with the old styles of architecture, everything in Jerusalem stone.  A few of us fantasized about wouldn't it be wonderful to have a pied-a-terre as lovely as one of these homes, for BJC folks to use when visiting Jerusalem?

Back to the hotel for a learning session with Rabbi Dardik about Chassidism, then dinner, Havdalah, some shmoozing and then to bed.  Tomorrow will be a busy day.

    

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Israel Day 4 by Ellen Severson

               

Crossing the Judean desert &
leaving our troubles behind!

As we cross the Judean desert again, we are reminded that in biblical days the desert was a place to go and leave troubles behind.  “The desert is a classic place where people ran to get away from whatever problems they had." Think of when David ran to the desert to get away from Saul.

As we traveled from Jerusalem to Masada, we crossed the green line into what was Jordan before the 6 day war. We passed Bedouin encampments, fields of date palms and a few camels.

At Ein Gedi (natural springs), we took a dip into two of the four spring fed pools. Everyone was laughing and reveling in the cool refreshing experience.

At the Dead Sea some of us braved the salt water and floated to the top.

At Masada, the Israelites turned
the Roman bats into mikvaot.

"At Masada I learned a lot; I was impressed that when the Israelites came they turned the Roman baths in to mikvaot," Ruth.

"Shiloh really got to me, just being where the ark of the covenant was," Sol.

"This has been an incredible experience learning from Shuli, our guide and Rabbi Dardik,” Sol

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Israel Day 4 by Richard Leavitt

  

We seem to have made friends with a virus, as first one, then 2,3, now 4 of us have developed g.i. symptoms and been sidelined.  No more hugging or kissing, or even shaking hands. And stay away from unwashed fruit! 

Segway ride - The Old City in the background

The rest of us boarded our bus for Masada bright and early this morning, as it gets unbearably hot there by mid-day. We took the tram to the top and spent a couple of hours learning 

Learning about Masada

about the last stronghold of the Jewish rebels, before the Romans breached our fortress and the zealots suicided rather than be taken captive and enslaved. We had a discussion about the injunction against suicide versus the wish to determine one's fate.  One of the remarkable aspects of Masada was how the Jews modified and adapted this remnant of one of Herod's castles into a Jewish village, with several mikvahs and a synagogue.  The architecture is fascinating; there is so much detail still remaining, including mosaic floors, wall and ceiling coloring and ornamentation, an elevated floor in the steam bath that kept the floor cool enough to walk on while the room was steam-hot, a channeling system to collect water and direct it to cisterns, much like the Bedouin system we saw yesterday, and more.

In the afternoon, we went to Ein Gedi, to a series of gorgeous waterfalls fed from a spring in the hills. We were all hot, dusty and sweaty from the heat, so the welcoming falls and pools were perfect.  On the way back to our bus, we crossed paths with a herd of Ibex, graceful antelope-like creatures who paid us little notice unless we tried to move too close.  One clever one was balancing easily in a tree, munching leaves that were too high for the others.  

Last stop for the day was the Dead Sea. Those who went in the water floated gently, careful not to splash water because the salinity is so high that getting a drop in your eye is painful.  The bus ride back to the hotel was quieter than usual because many of us napped.  It was another intense, hot and stimulating day.  

Milkshakes with the Twitos!

After dinner, old friends came to visit: Bill Taeusch, the Twito family, the Rozen family, and Shoshanna Sommerville.  All are thriving and it was a pleasure to see them and catch up. The Twitos are expecting in October and Shiri looks great. 

Busy day tomorrow, so TAFN (that's all for now).

Post script: apologies to the francophones for confusing fois for foie in my last missive.  

RL

To view all our pictures....click here and don't forget to leave a comment...especially those who were on this incredible trip -- please tell us your thoughts when you were there!